How To Re Cook Crack Resin

It happens all the time. Surfboards are fragile objects of design. Even the most careful surfer will, one day, find a crack on his favorite surfboard. So, how can you fix a surfboard ding or rail shatters?Assessing the damage is a priority. After washing the tears away, we need to analyze carefully how seriously hurt the surfboard is. If you've broken the magic stick in two, but don't want to give it up, you should consider visiting a professional shaper.If you're simply repairing a small-to-medium crack, then you can do it yourself, no worries.

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In the end, the ultimate goal is to protect the core - the inner foam - from the destructive power of salt water.Water can easily and quickly damage your surfboard forever. If your board is not properly sealed against H2O, it will become yellow, heavy and rotten with time.Forget the old surfers' formula: tape and wax. While it might serve as a temporary solution in a pinch, it is definitely not the recommended way to properly fix dings. Ready to save your surfboard from the hospital bed?1.

Make sure you've cleaned the board: remove sand, wax and salt;2. Squeeze the crack to confirm there's isn't any water inside: if it's completely dry, you can carry on;If you own a polyurethane foam surfboard, note that there are excellent ding repair kits on the market. For general touches, you can purchase specially formulated UV curing resin for repairing both epoxy and polyurethane surfboards.3. Apply the desired amount of resin onto the damaged area: do it in the shade, with a disposable, sturdy instrument - a wooden stick, for example4.

Make sure to spread the product over the entirety of the ding, pressing out any bubbles, and filling cracks and crevices;5. Cover the resin with a plastic sheet to mold the resin into proper shape;6. Expose the resin to sunlight: you'll notice that it will gel, and then harden, within five minutes;7. Reapply additional resin, if necessary, to fill up gaps and low areas;8. Finally, once dried, sand off rough and excess resin using a light sandpaper: you'll get a smooth, flat finish;Bigger dings may require fiberglass cloth. It will strengthen larger areas and exposed surfboard foam.All you have to do is cut the fiberglass patch slightly larger than the size of the repair area, then press it into a thin layer of resin. Fit over the 'wound', add more resin, and expose to sunlight.Take a look at.

.Tips for working with epoxy resinPosted August 24, 2018 by Katherine SwiftTips for working with epoxy resinOriginally published January 2012. Updated August 2018.Whether you’re new to epoxy resin or a seasoned professional, these hints will be helpful to you working with epoxy resin: How does epoxy resin work?Epoxy resins come in two parts: the resin and the hardener. When the two parts are mixed together, a chemical reaction occurs that causes heat production. This heat changes the epoxy from a liquid to a solid. Epoxy resin, like other resins, is mixed together in a specific ratio or amount of resin to hardener. There is a pot time to the resin (period of time that the resin is still liquid enough to work with) versus curing time (the amount of time needed for the epoxy to completely harden).

Each epoxy resin is different! For proper curing, the resin needs to be mixed thoroughly in the correct proportions.If you are confused by these terms, please check out our. What safety precautions do I need to take when working with epoxy resin?.

Follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions. Work in a clean and well-ventilated area. Depending on materials used, strongly consider wearing a respirator, rubber gloves and eye protection. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for clean up.

Dispose of all waste materials in accordance with local regulations. How should I prepare my crafting area for working with epoxy resin?. Cover the work area with wax paper. Resin will not stick to wax paper. Prepare a level surface for items to dry on that will not be disturbed. (And speaking from personal experience herewatch out for the cat hair!!!). Have boxes or domes available to cover your resin projects while they are curing.

This will keep out dust and other contaminants.What if I want to include things in my resin?. To prevent discoloration and water stains, seal both sides and edges of the image. This is especially important if the image is printed on an ink-jet printer. Allow the paper and sealant to dry completely before covering the images with resin. Glue the image to surface to prevent “floating” and possibly trapping air bubbles which may show up later.

Let adhesive dry completely before adding resin. Resin magnifies images and makes them surprisingly clear. Make sure your paper is exactly the way you want it.What about embedding other items in resin?. Flowers and other vegetation need to be dried before use. Seal dried flowers, candy sprinkles, etc., with a to prevent discoloration. If using, add a small amount at first. Generally, a little goes a long way.

Do you have any resin pouring tips?. Apply the resin a little bit at a time. Depending on the resin, it can pour quickly. Pouring from a is easier to control. Leave a bit of resin in the bottom of your pour cup. You can then check the resin in the cup to check to see if your resin is cured. This way you don’t have to disturb your project to see how it is curing.

A is great for removing bubbles from your resin. DianeI am new to this whole thing and I have 1000000 questions haha.When you pour the resin into your mold and you have a laminated picture, how do you get it into your project? Once it is poured do you just lay it on top and it will stick or if you glue it how do you keep the glue from showing and when do you glue it?

I have just bought products to make coasters with kids pictures in them. PLEASE give me STEP BY STEP instructions after mixing so say start at the pouring stage PLEASE and THANK YOU!!Also, what type items can I use for molds? We need around 300 for Vacation Bible School projects? I need a very cheap mold to do a coaster or possibly something along that size? Katherine SwiftHi Diane!When using a laminated picture, trim the lamination away close to the picture edge, but not right on it. This little bit of a border will still keep your picture sealed and keep the resin from creeping in, but will still be clear (invisible) in your casting.Do you want the picture to be on top of your finished casting?

Where you want it when you are finished will determine when/where you place it as it relates to your mold. If you are pouring into a mold with the idea that you will pop the resin out and the part touching the inside of the mold will be the top, then you will want to pour and add your pictures in face down.

(I know this comment sounds confusing. You’ve inspired me to make a video to cover the topic.)As for cheap molds in bulk, I would suggest trying a restaurant supply store. You might be able to get some implements there. Do you know a restaurant owner? Buying their food in bulk also means they get lots of containers with lids? You might be able to use them.

Experiment first though. I don’t have any concerns that the resin will cure in it, but I worry about you getting it out (use some mold release) and how it will look (the resin will take on any textures in the surface). I am also going to post this topic in the forum to get others to comment. Look for it under ‘how can I.’. I don’t know that resin is the easiest choice here. Since it is going to be outside, I would suggest using either polyurethane or polyester resin.

Both will cure hard, however, they each have disadvantages. The polyester resin is cheap, but will yellow with exposure to UV light.

(It will happen quickly in FL!) The polyurethane is pretty durable, but can be downright crabby to work with in Florida (and is a bit more expensive). Polyurethane hates moisture (humidity included)! The only way I could get polyurethane resin to consistently work here in FL was to use it in a room that was completely sealed off with the dehumidifier running. I had to get the humidity levels under 50 percent for it to work. Regardless of which one you choose, be sure to take the proper safety precautions. BonnyHoping you can help me as I’ve scoured the net looking for answers and fixes with no success.

The craft I was making was a candy toilet seat for my bathroom. My husband and I followed the instructions in the book I have, watched tutorials and researched the dickens before just diving in to make the seat. In spite of following the instructions, something went horribly wrong. The reaction was so bad that parts of the mold actually melted and warped and some of the candies literally cooked and melted.After letting it set up, I was able to take the seat out of the mold and in feeling mold, there are ripples and some bubbles in places where the reaction was intense it melted the plastic. To say I was disappointed is an understatement because we followed the directions and can’t figure out where it went wrong. The first two layers went fine.

It all seemed to go kablooey in the last pour/set up.Do you know if I attempted to try the seat again, will the ripples be able to be sanded out so the seat is smooth as it should have been or is it a total loss on that part of the mold? If the seat part is a total loss, do you know of anyone who sells just one piece instead of the set?

In your experience, can you explain as to why this reacted the way it did and if reattempted what should be done differently?Appreciate any input as this project has been a huge disappointment. CourtneyMy house has beautiful brass decorative backplates on the interior doorknobs but there are a few missing. Rather than replace them all with something new, I’d like to try to make matching replacements for the missing ones.

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I’ve been reading about resin and I’m thinking about using clay to make a mould from an existing plate and then making new plates with resin. I plan to paint the finished pieces with metallic spray paint. Do you think resin is a good material for this? Any suggestions?

I have a problem with micro bubbles. I use epoxy resin as a sealant between my pendant trays and images, and a coat between my image and glass cabochon overlay. My problem is this: Even when I get ALL bubbles out with heat (this includes first using heat on the layer of resin between the pendant tray and the image, and then again on the layer of resin between the image and the glass) and all bubbles are gone, after the resin starts to cure (about an hour or so into the process) dozens of little micro bubbles appear under the glass. By this point in time, the resin is too tacky to press on the glass to get the air bubbles to just seep out the sides (where the glass ends and the edged of the pendant tray begins) and removing the glass just ruins the image, and I have to re-pour all over again, only to have the same problem when the new layer starts to cure. Is there a way to prevent these micro bubbles from forming?

Or should I using something other than resin for this job? LisetteHi Katherine! I love your site! I’ve never worked with resin before but I am pretty crafty and refinish and upcycle furniture and home decor for a living. I’m entering a county fair Upcycling crafts contest.

I’m going to take a stack of old Vogue and Harpers Bazaar magazines and make a stool or a kids chair out of it and I’m hoping pouring resin over the stack will be enough to stick the stack together so that it becomes one piece. Can I then screw in a piece of plexiglass on top and bottom or will it crack? Should I brush it on or pour it? I’m afraid pouring will make a “puddle ” at the bottom?

Lots of questions sorry but If you could start me in the right direction it would be most appreciated! DeborahhI Katherine i hope you can help me. I too am having trouble with microbubbles.

I make pendants using E6000 epoxy to seal my inkjet printed photos onto glass cabochons. I have had only two successful runs. The rest have been plagued by bubbles. No matter how hard or light I push they form either right after i mate them or not long after. I use glossy photo paper and glaze the back.

I don’t seal the photo itself but haven’t had any trouble with inks running. I was wondering about everything from the humidity to the quality of paper. I’ve even tried uv epoxy with the same results. I’m desperate because people want my pendants and love my designs but I need to find a solution before I can make a strong go of it. Hope you can help. HeidiHi Katherine I was just wondering if you could help me out because I’m a year 12 student and currently am planning my body of work (final artwork). I am looking into doing sculpture or a collection of works and I want to see if I can use resin along with coral pieces and shells to create my own kind of reef.

I have no idea of how to use resin or what it actually is and what effects it has on organic materials. I’m thinking of experimenting with it to try and recreate sculpture pieces like these:Would you have any idea of how to make resin like the ones in Shona Wilsons artworks?

I would really appreciate it if you could help my out! Thanks, Heidi. ChrisHi KatherineI’ve tried a few castings with different embedded items and have found that plastics and such work fine for me, but I have encountered a thin layer of ‘bubble’ it’s more of a film of bubble around a small sculpture of grey fiberboardnow it looks like some kind of surface tension thing. In places the resin has soaked in slightly to the board and so bonded nicely, even though it has made the board darker. But in other places the resin doesn’t seem to have adhered and that there is a thin layer of air between sculpture and resin.I’ve seen a similar thing with some rough wood splinters Ive tried to embed. Is there something I can coat the fiberboard and wood with to prevent this film?Many thanks for your time and experience.Chris. Zachattack EldredgeHi there, I have an old beautiful monkey pod wooden coffee table from Hawaii that I am looking to refinish.

Its from the 50’s and the main issue I’m faced with is that the existing topcoat which I believe to be a epoxy resin has seen some wear and tear over the years and I have chips, scratches, a couple cracks. All of which are in the topcoat, not the wood that I want to correct to make the table look beautiful once again. Whats the best approach to tackling this? Do I fill the cracks in with epoxy resin and then sand it after its cured to blend into the topcoat, then after that step pour on a brand new top coat? Am I missing anything here? Also, can a oil based sanding sealer be used on top of the old topcoat before I begin sanding to help smooth things out and make the sanding in preparation for the new topcoat be easier? Thanks and take care!

SeasonsI am looking to make a hanging faux stained glass window for privacy in the window inside my shower. The window does get a damp, but not soaked, and gets a few hours of sun per day.I am thinking of using plexiglass as the base. My plan is to sand the plexiglass, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil and dust and apply self adhesive led strips for my outlines, then pour eyeshadow tinted resin to make my “glass”.Can you suggest the best resin for this project?Will it need to be sealed with something to protect it from dampness?Any advice at all is most welcome!I’ve never worked with resin before, but I’ve always wanted to and I can’t wait to start! Katherine SwiftI haven’t tried anything like this, so I’m afraid I can’t recommend a resin. I would expect resin would adhere to the plexiglass, but I don’t have any experience with it, so I don’t want to tell you for sure that it will work. You will also need to find a way to adhere the LED strips to the plexiglass to make sure the resin doesn’t leak underneath.

I wouldn’t expect adhesive strips to be enough of a barrier. Since you are new to resin and this is an ambitious project, I would suggest this blog post for reading as well: You are going to need to attack this project in small steps, doing experiments along the way, before going after your large scale idea. MichelleI am planning on glazing deer antler slices with easycast epoxy resin. I have a few questions regarding the application. What would I use to glaze just the top? I have seen people seal their objects with easycast using a popsicle stick. I dont want to leave any brush marks or bristles behind.

So would the stick be good if I use the resin sparingly? And another question, the bone of the antler is not very porous but the dried marrow in the middle is very porous.

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What can I use to seal it before I apply the resin? I want to avoid the micro bubbles.I’m also planning on trying them as open back bezels. I carved out the marrow and sanded the inside bone. Will I have any issues with bubbling?

Or should I just seal it to be on the safe side?Thanks in advance for your advice!P.S.The antlers were found in the woods. Deer shed them and I find them and use them in my jewelry. SharonThanks so much for your response, I really appreciate your input. I’m currently using 40 mm semi sphere molds and first I pour the polyester resin/catalyst, then I grab a dandelion by the stem and slowly immerse the flower in until the bottom of the flower hits the base of the dome. Then I’m left with the remaining part of the dandelion and stem sticking out of the top which is the flat side and will be the underside of the finished product.

I plan to mount the finished product onto a bezel but when I take it out of the mold it is very irregular shaped because it is hardened around the jutting out stem and remainder of flower that didn’t fit in the mold. Bits of dandelion are sticking out. Katherine SwiftThis post on our blog will help you do the math on calculating how much resin you need. Once you put the resin on the side, it will want to drip down. I don’t know how well the sides will get coated.

I have not done a project like this before, but I can share that ‘sparkly’ stuff like crystals and mirrors will not be as sparkly once they are under resin. It has to do with the light not refracting like it does when it goes through air.

(There is a physics explanation for it, I just don’t know what it is. Hello, I have a big concern.i tried using resin hardner mix on canvas after watching tutorials of resin art on youtube.

All of them used plastic glasses to mix the color and the resin-hardener mixture. My problem is that when i mixed the resin hardener with the color in plastic glass, it was fuming hot and boiled, dissolving the plastic glass, spilling all the mixture out and fuming. It was horrific experience, i don’t know why it happened.

Can you please guide me??? I really want to paint some interesting concepts with resin art but i feel unsure about what i should change in the process because the last one turned out to be a science experiment. Jennifer janeAny advice on applying resin to spray painted surfaces?I’ve been trying to spray paint some bottle caps, affix animage and then fill with resin. Trouble is the spray paintkeeps leaching into the resin and causing discoloration.I’ve tried spray painting a coat of varnish over the inside of the bottle caps to try and seal the paint before applyingthe resin. Although leaching is much less, it’s stillhappening and driving me mad! Not sure if this is a solvent on solvent issue or what?

Starting to think it might be abetter idea to make moulds first and then affix them using modge podge or something rather than pouring the resinstraight into the bottle caps. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated! Dear Sirs.I ha purchse 4 sets of Maseal packets of 100gm each of Epoxy resin&Hardner at high cost fo various domestic works.i used half a bit of one set mixed properly&used for joining.arresting water leakage etc&worked well.After keeping for some months all 3 sets are not having softness &difficult to mix each other.Plz suggest simple methods how to soften epoxy&resin&make it a paste to apply as new packets,otherwise my investment for m seal will be wasted.Plz suggest some easy way to soften it before mixing both.tnx (acn)12-1-18. CharlotteHi, I’ve had a look through the feed and can’t find a similar question so apologies if this has already been answered.

I am making resin pyramids with a mix of crystals, copper and aluminium shavings added. I’m using a silicone mould and following the instructions for quantities however the finished product does not look smooth. Some parts are lovely and shiny and some parts are rough. I’m not sure where I’m going wrong.

This has happened on all but my first attempt! Naturally, the added materials sink to the bottom of the mould but I have seen others where they are more evenly spread throughout the whole piece.

I don’t think these are poured in layers as I’ve seen those too and they look altogether different! Thanks in advance for your advice! Dale BondanzaRead through many posts not sure if I saw this above.

I’m trying to make a heart shaped resin mold. I have a heart shaped piece of wood that I’ve hot glued corks onto and placed large nails around the edge to form “walls” to which I’m going to wrap wax paper/masking tape around to form a quasi mold. Then I’ll use an AL foil pan to press against it to make the walls firmer before adding the resin. I know I’ll be in for a fair amount of sanding but I couldn’t find an easy heart shaped container the resin won’t stick to. This heart is then being attached to a frame for hanging.

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Is this all crazy or does it sound possible. JayOk, I zero idea how to resin and stumbled onto this site I have a weird question and hope someone here can give me some ideas.My cat passed away last month and I have her ashes. I have a “small dog tag urn”, but honestly I haven’t worn dog tags in a few years and I know I wouldn’t wear it all the timeSo, I purchased a watch compass What I’d like to do, is remove the compass part (which will require a dremel) and now I’ll have a “pocket” in which to place a little bit of her ashes. I am thinking I can then seal the now exposed part with resin and then seal the protective cover permanently (this is a Sun Company Wrist Turtle, you can get a idea on Amazon).I only take my watch off when charging it and this way I have some small part of her with me 24/7 I am welcome to thoughts, suggestions or ideas.

BrittanyHello!Very cool reads here.I am wanting to make a custom cribbage board for my grandma. I have very little experience but am pretty good at getting what I done as long as I have a plan.

My idea is to purchase a preglued round board. Sand, and stain and paint any game markings I need around the perimeter.

Next lay pressed lilac in the center and then seal with epoxy. Then I would need to drill all of the tiny holes. I guess im looking for tips on if my steps seem to be the best order for my project and any potential issues i may run into.Thank you!